Hopping Clouds

  • Home
  • About
    • About Me
    • Collaborate
  • Destination
    • Malaysia
    • Singapore
    • Indonesia
    • Hong Kong
    • Taiwan
    • China
    • Japan
    • South Korea
    • USA
  • Food
  • Fun Stuff
  • Say Hi
Powered by Blogger.
After browsing through the websites for my next hiking trip, I realised that it is VERY difficult to find an itinerary to tell how to spend your precious holiday time in an unfamiliar land. I try to plan my trips not just for the hike but also the surrounding areas so that I can make the most out of my time there. Spending all that money for flight tickets, lodging and not see the sights? That would be such a waste!

*Cat image courtesy of http://www.roseannapiter.com
I tracked down my old itinerary for my Mulu trip and decided to post it up. Prices is based on per person. Doesn't hurt if I shared but do note that this is my itinerary and it has worked fine for me. Not sure if the items on the itinerary are as what you have in mind but at least you'll have an idea. This is an UAYOR (Use At Your Own Risk) itinerary. If you are going with a tour group, don't worry, your tour operators will sort everything out.

NOTICE: If you are going to use this Itinerary on any forms of published media, do credit this blog. Thank you.

Day 1

0935 - Arrive at Miri, Sarawak by AirAsia
1000 - Friends picked us up and sent us to town to get supplies and groceries, e.g. eggs, apples, vegetables,
            WATER, lots of water.
1400 - Depart Miri by MAS
1455- Arrive in Mulu and check in @ Mulu Park HQ (T: +603792300/301) (Park Entrance Fee: MYR10)
1800 - Dinner @ Mulu Cafe (open until 2130)
1900 - Join Night Shift (2 hours night jungle walk) (MYR10)
2100 - Sleep
*Park Entrance Fee (MYR10)
Night Shift (MRY10)

Day 2

0700 - Breakfast & collect packed lunch
0800 - Proceed by river to Kuala Litut (for 1 - 2 hours)
1000 - Begin 8km walking trail to Camp 5 with break for lunch
1400 - Reach Camp 5 and settle in
1700 - Prepare early dinner
2000 - Sleep
*Pinnacle 3D/2N Package (MYR325) does not include porter fee (max 17.5kg- MYR150 for 3 days)

Day 3

0430 - Wake up
0500 - Prepare breakfast & packed lunch
0630 - Begin ascent to Gunung Api (2.4km). Duration up - 3-5 hours to view Pinnacles. Duration down 3-5
           hours.
1600 - Prepare dinner

Day 4

0730 - Prepare breakfast
0930 - Trek to Kuala Litut & transfer by long boat to Park HQ
1230 - Check into Park HQ and proceed for lunch
1330 - Join Mulu Canopy SkyWalk (2 hour guided tour)
1500 - Deer Cave & Lang Cave to view evening exodus of bats at Bat Observatory
1800 - Proceed for dinner
*Deer & Lang Caves  (MYR20)
Skywalk (MYR35)

Day 5

0700 - Breakfast at Park HQ
0800 - Take long boat to Penan Village for shopping on the way to Clearwater & Wind Caves
1230 - Checkout and proceed to Mulu Airport
1455 - Departure to Miri
1525 - Arrive in Miri & do last minute shopping near airport. Cab required
1910 - Departure to KL

We brought around RM600 to spend on souvenirs and food (apart from that listed above) as the Park's does not have a credit card system.
Day 5, the last day at the Park.

We had our last breakfast at the cafe and checked out. We picked up our certificates from Park HQ with the places we had been to marked off. It costs less than RM10. After all that, we wanted something to show for our efforts!
L-R: Breakfast and CL having a moment
The plan for today was to do a little bit of shopping at the Penan Village where the women sold handmade crafts and exploring the last 2 show caves.

The show caves will take approximately 3-4 hours to complete and the guided tour will cost MYR30 pax with long boat transport from Park HQ of MYR20.

The Penan Village (which is on the way to the caves) is 15 minutes away from the Park HQ. Most of the porters and guides actually stay in this village and commute by boat. Make sure that you inform your tour guide so that he will make a stop for you.The handicraft market is open on most mornings and close at noon. So if you are looking for souvenirs, don't take think about for too long. The long boat normally lets you stop for half an hour before continuing the journey to Wind and Clearwater caves.

Items at the market
I bought one of the woven bags for MYR25 as I thought it could be used as a decorative piece at home. The lady told me that she wove it herself and it is quite sturdy although it felt really light. Rachel decided to try out the bag after she loaded her stuff into it and found it to be quite comfortable. So I would really recommend readers to get 1 if possible. Rachel loved it so much until I had a hard time prying it away from her.

As we moved up river, you can see interesting rock formations hanging over the river. It boggles the mind when one tries to think how long more does it take for it to touch the surface of the water.
L-R: Melinau river, rock formations
The first cave we arrived at is Wind Cave (Gua Angin in Malay) which is a short walk up the jetty. Wind Cave and Clearwater Cave forms part of the Clearwater Cave system. There is a caving exercise available at the Park HQ that you can sign up for and it will take you through the dark innards of Mulu. The caving activity requires prior booking and is dependent on the water levels in the cave.
Cave information
The attraction about this cave is that there is a constant breeze that flows the cavern. When we were there, we could only feel the breeze as we went deeper into the cave. The boardwalk does a loop in the back of the cave to show you the King's Chamber. This is where towering stalactites and stalagmites form straight columns and when their shadow is seen on the cave walls, some of them look like nobles with crowns. A column may be formed when a stalactite grown downwards until it reaches the cave floor, a stalagmite growing upwards due to the steady trickle of water containing calcium dripping at its tip for eons or the more amazing thing, both stalagmite and stalactite meeting each other in the middle.

It's really too dark in here for a conventional point and shoot. A DSLR would probably be better.

Halfway through, we found Moonmilk on the cave walls. Look our for those nodules. They are not baby stalagmites and are supposedly soft to the touch. No, we did not touch them and you should not either.
Moonmilk



King's Chamber
Another view of King's Chamber


The next stop is Clearwater Cave (Gua Air Jernih in Malay). It's a 10 minutes walk from Wind Cave on a boardwalk anchored into the cliff surface.
Going to Clearwater. That's my bag right there.
On the way to Clearwater, we spotted the mini Pinnacles! Up close and personal with the Pinnacles instead of staring at them across a valley. We touched these and they are sharp!


To my horror, next to the signboard that declared we have reached Clearwater Cave was a steep staircase with 200 steps. My knees have not recovered and were aching like crazy! With a sigh, I gritted my teeth and tackled a stair at a time. Luckily there were small benches along the way for me to take a breather.

There were a group of China tourists when we were there, decked out in dresses and heeled slippers. Slippers unless those are hiking sandals are not advisable for these activity. Not sure what these tourists had in mind.

At the top of the stairs, a gaping cavern opens up. 

Clearwater entrace
At the sides of the cavern, grew single leaf plants that cling precariously to the rock. Their survival depended on that one single leaf to gather sunlight.

The park guide waited for everyone in the tour group to gather before proceeding into the cave. Time to switch on your headlamps. You should try to keep up with the group so that you can hear the explanation the guide gives. They won't wait for you. As much as we wanted to hear the story of the cave, we let the group move ahead as as we were busy taking pictures



Before the descent
Look at the shadow. Does it look like a lady?

Desceding into Clearwater Cave


The blurriness of an inadequate camera

As you descend further into the cave, you can see areas cordoned off for repairs. At the end of the dark tunnel, you will hear the sounds of a rushing underground river. This portion is part of a subterranean river route that lasts 170km. It's hard to imagine that thousands of years ago, the same river carved out the cavern.

There was a bridge which lead over the river but it was closed as the guide informed us that there was a danger of rising water due to rainfall a couple of days ago. The guide told us that if we joined the caving activity, the participants will end up on the other side of the bridge. We were quite interested and who knows, maybe my next trip back to Mulu will involve caving. Woots~!  

A shaft of light from a collapsed portion of the cave.
Next to the bridge there is a a small staircase down towards the river. You can put your hand into the icy water and feel that the water. After you dry your hands, you can feel a film over it due to the calcium concentration.

Subterranean river water
 When we made our way back out, the tourist concentration increased. Since there is a picnic and toilet facilities next to Clearwater more people congregated Clearwater around compared to the other show caves. Children and adults breaking out their packed lunches and some were swimming around in the natural pool just outside the cave. The fishes in there were huge! BTW fishing is banned. If you are caught fishing, each fish in your basket can earn you a fine of MYR1000.

Swimming area in natural pool.
It was sad to see that there were more foreign tourist than locals. Seems like they have a better appreciation of nature than those who are blessed with the wonders of Mother Earth in their own backyard.

We made our way back to the HQ, waited for our pick-up truck to pick us up, and flew to Miri. Again, I thank my lucky stars that I have great friends in Miri who took us to a local seafood shop to buy dried seafood and had our early dinner. Thereafter, another plane trip back to KL at 1920. 

Tired but happy with my maiden 2000m mountain, new friends and a great learning experience. 
Outside Clearwater Cave
Exhaustion the day before led us to having a good night's sleep. We awoke around 0700 hours to prepare breakfast and some emergency rations for the trek back to Kuala Litut, where our boat was to rendezvous with us. The plan was to get out of the forest by 0900 and reach the meeting point at noon.

Before leaving, we took photos of our wonderful and sweet guide, Susan (she even made us little bracelets as mementos!) and the porters.



After she passed us our bracelets. She made them overnight from the rattan around  Camp 5!

With one of our team. The bridge behind me lead to the Headhunter's Trail, once past the bridge it is the point of no return.

This is the river where icy clear cold water ran, where we buried beer to get it chilled just right and soothed our aching feer
As we looked towards Gunung Api where the Pinnacles could be observed, we did wonder, how did we get there so fast?
The white patch is the Pinnacles

With a heave of our bags, we started on our way. My knees were aching but it was flat ground so that was some reprieve. We started off on a brisk pace for half an hour. Then the group decided to do a little tree hugging.
That brown thing behind them is a trunk of a tree!
Things started proper after hugs with the giant. Minor accidents here and there, e.g. scratches by grass, curious leech (but Mosiguard came to the rescue!) and I broke my toe snail clean in half when I stubbed it against a rock.

We arrived just a little past noon but our boat was not there. The noise of a diesel engine soon reached our ears. We plunged into the icy river and clambered in. I admit, I had a fleeting moment of panic. What if our boat forgot about us? How are we getting back to camp? Do we have to trek back 8.8km? I know, it was paranoia and the pain of a bleeding toe that veered my mind into the realms of all things negative. No reception in the forest either.

We got back a little later than expected so we hurriedly took a shower, washed our muddy laundry, treated our wounds and lunched. With hardly enough time to take a nap, it was time for our second part of our trip, caving!

If you are planning to do a similar itinerary like mine, bringing bottled water is very much needed.

This would be my 2nd time heading to the caves. The first time was 10 years ago and I made the trip to Mulu National Park with my family. This time it is with people who conquered my first mountain with me :)
The objective of the second half of the day was simple. To reach the Bat Exodus outpost by 6pm to watch the bats fly out for feeding time. Before then, we had time to kill. So we went off on a guided tour around the Mulu National Park HQ.

First stop was the 2 hour guided Mulu Canopy Skywalk. I would say that the Skywalk is really quite a distance and quite enjoyable to be high up in the foliage. Unfortunately no wildlife on the forest floor. A wild boar would have been nice.

 The Canopy walk is the longest in the world at 480 metres. With the swaying bridges, it felt longer. Nevertheless, being away from the jungle ground also meant that you get more ventilation away from the humidity that coats the lower levels.
Start of the Canopy walk
The entire 2 hours was on raised platforms that swayed side to side with every step.
 At this stage my knees ached whenever I encountered stairs. Every step threatened to tip me over. Luckily Uncle Chong was always close by and ready to grab my bag to steady me whenever I started to wobble.

After the Skywalk, we took a 3km broadwalk towards Lang Cave. As with all cave exploration, a hat, sensible shoes and a headlamp is a must. Not the ridiculous LV handbags or high heels. Caves are usually wet, slippery and it's residents are bats. This also mean guano aka bat poo. Do you really want to slip on that puddle because your shoe had no traction and you land into a pile of poo? The poo smells.... I mean all poo does, but this is just full with ammonia.

Lang Cave was named after a guide who lead the expedition to the caves in the late 1970s to conduct research. There are boardwalks in the cave and well-placed lights to emphasize the beauty of a process that started thousand of years ago. We were warned not to touch any rocks in caves as residue from our fingers could destroy/ stunt/ change the course the the dripping water onto the stalagmite and stalactites. Some people has tried the water in the caves and said that it felt very refreshing. I did not. Remember bat poo?
Me at Lang Cave
L - R: Entrance to Lang Caves, cave formations
Lang Cave isn't very big so it did not take too long. However the next one is a VIP in the Earth's underbelly.

Meet Deer Cave (Gua Rusa in Malay)

The hole there is Deer Cave
Ok that's the view from the Bat Exodus point. At the real entry, you will be greeted with this instead.


This cave is the world's largest cave passage at 174m wide and 122 m high. It got its name from the practice of local tribes herding deer into this cave before finishing them off. This also means that it will be on the itinerary of any tour group you decide to book your package from. To give you an idea how the gloom will greet you, here is a fuzzy picture from my camera. I only had a point-n-shoot with me so fuzziness is a part of the package when you try to take pictures of nature's wonder. It overwhelms the camera.  


Jokes aside, it is really a place that you want to go at least once. The sheer size of it makes you feel that there are things out there bigger than you are. The eons that it has taken to form, makes your life blanch in comparison. Before you enter the cave, you will notice lots of healthy vegetation compared to Lang. It's from the daily fertilizers. This place is home to millions of bats! Bat cave anyone?

The next thing you will notice is the smell. The guano smell will very pungent. So if you can't take it at the entrance, I forewarn you not to continue inside. It gets worse.  Strap on your headlamp, wear your hat and gloves and make sure your shoes are on tight. It is dark, damp, and slippery (from bat poo and running water). There is a wooden broad-walk with ropes rails. You can hold on to these rails if you have a glove on. Otherwise, try not to. It is full of bat guano and you can get sick from it if it enters your system. Don't look up too long either, a poo may catch you in the eye.

Another thing to look to look out for is the ground. Apart from the slippery boards, there may be snakes coiled nearer to the rail posts. These snakes are the ones who normally cling to the side of the caves, hoping to snatch fast food as it flies past.

The famed profile of Abraham Lincoln. Funny how nature works.


Poor fella probably fell from the ceiling of the cave

 Towards the end of the path in the cave, you will see sunlight hitting the Garden of Eden, a patch of vegetation where the a part of the cave collapsed many years ago. As I stood there, the scene was how I remembered it from 10 years ago. Not a thing has changed. Your mortality is ever more felt.

Garden of Eden within the cave
Tour is not over yet. To get out of the cave, you have to go out the same way you came in. So we trooped out and made our way to the observation deck for the daily (if the bats decides to accommodate the humans) departure of bats. There is a concessions stand at the deck for the hungry and thirsty.



Observation deck.  Everyone stares at the hole willing for the bats to come out.

The divas of the evening finally made their appearance at 6pm. Our guide explained that we may not get a strong stream of bats coming out that night as the air was too damp. 

A puff of bats

The stream that came after the puff
It was a long day and we sat at the observatory long after everyone has left before making our way slowly back through the boardwalks of the rain forest. We stayed back reflecting on our climb, new found friendships and wonders of the Earth.

Another plus if you don't hurry back? Your path will be lit by fireflies :)

A little shout out to the housekeepers of Mulu National Park. Before heading out to the park cafe, we left our laundry handing from the laundry lines next to our chalet. The sun was out and super hot. We hoped that it would dry by the time we got back. However halfway through it started to drizzle. Tough luck and thought there will be another round of washing the next day. When we got back after dinner, we were horrified that our clothes were not on the line anymore. Was there some pervert on the grounds? We quickly called Park HQ main line and was informed that the housekeepers kept our clothes when the sky turned dark and will return them early next morning. We heaved a sigh of relief. Thank you Mulu Park HQ for your considerate staff!
When the alarm clock rang at 5am, we sprang up. Not that we managed to get much sleep anyway due to CL's snoring. Gathering our breakfast supplies, we carbo-loaded with noodles and bread. For those who are not used to eating heacy in the morning, eat a piece of bread and store the rest for the climb up. Climbing 70 degrees upwards has a nasty effect on a full stomach.


We were warned that we have to make it up to the first ladder before 11am. Any team who reaches after the cut-off time will be turned back.




This is the first ladder, a milestone of the point of no return. This is where the gloves and long sleeves come in handy. We reached with half and hour to spare.



As we headed up, I was too busy trying to catch my breath and tried not to slow the rest of the ultra-fit. the huffing and wheezing made me forget my camera at times. When the gung-ho actually took a break, I took the opportunity to take pictures of one my multitudes of companions on the mountain, the Ant.

What I realized throughout this climb was that you have to be at least 160cm tall to reach the multitude of stairs nailed into rocks, grab a rope or even reach across to grab an outcropping. No one told me that! Guess who was the shortest in the group. You've got it! Me riggghhht ovvver here.

Thankfully, I have great team mates even though I had just met them on the day we flew out together, especially Uncle Chong who really looked out for me, Choong Lii who helped me gauge how far will I drop if I released a hand, and the Triathlete himself stopped and waited while I caught my breath.

Remember to bring your gloves, they helped me hold on to slippery ropes and let me dig my fingers into cracks in the cliff to get a firmer hold while I boosted myself over ledges. Don't bother washing after the trip. A good gardener's glove is good enough as it's going straight into the trash bin. It isn't worth wasting water on.

Finally the view that greeted us was worth it somehow. Even though, it was just a few pointy rocks.
Clear skies!

Clouds are rolling in



I thought the worst was over. How wrong I was...

Coming down was more difficult than going up. It would really be good advice during the climb up, to remember the way you did it because you would be doing it in reverse on the way down.I definitely had a hard time. Remember what I posted on being 160cm or more? I had to rely on my climbing buddies to let me know where I would land if I let go of a certain hand hold. There has to be trust going on during a climb. Without them, I would probably be  falling over a ledge, or end up with a broken ankle.

Halfway through, my knees and legs start to cramp up. To make matters worse, it started to drizzle and the mossy rocks turned into a travellator. Uncle Chong, the father figure of the group, had to hold on to my back pack to prevent me pitching over due to lack of grip and muscles that refused to work.

It took us 8 hours to get back down. 2 hours more than it took to get up. We kept eating energy bars on the way down because we were burning up so much calories from the climb. I did not manage to take out my camera during the climb down due to exhaustion.

Once we reached Camp 5, we stripped off our shoes and waded into the cold river to get rid of the mud and to relax our sore muscles. Even though I really dislike cold water, the river was different. It was strong, icy cold and soothing. It was cold enough to chill beer cans if you leave it at the bottom long enough. Had the sky to entertain us too.



That night we had a feast of starch (fried potato slices, spaghetti,), mushroom soup, and apples.
Dinner with our wonderful guide, Susan
Followed by dinner drinks and card games. We slept very soundly that night compared to the jitters we had on the night before.



Toasting to a trip well done!
Older Posts Home

ABOUT AUTHOR

Wishing travelling was a full-time job ;)

POPULAR POSTS

  • The Ship @ Damansara Uptown
  • Packing for Pinnacles, Mulu National Park (Prep)
  • Taipei Pig Home Apartment (台北猪窝) @ Taiwan
  • Yan Wo Dou Bun Chong Soya Bean Curd (人和豆品廠) @ Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
  • Hidden Tomato Noodles @ Star Cafe (星座冰室) Tsim Sha Tsui

Categories

Adelaide 4 Australia 3 Bali 7 Books 1 Borobudur 3 Breakfast 5 Brunch 4 Cafe 13 Dessert 1 Food 42 Hiking 19 Hong Kong 4 Hotel 7 Indonesia 11 Jeju 3 Jiu Fen 3 KL 2 Kota Kinabalu 7 Local 1 Malaysia 4 Pinnacles 7 Restaurant 10 Singapore 24 South Korea 4 Taipei 7 Taiwan 12 Travel 57 UNESCO 4 Vietnam 6 Work 3 Yogyakarta 1

Advertisement

FOLLOW ME @ INSTAGRAM

About Me

Popular Posts

  • The Ship @ Damansara Uptown
  • Packing for Pinnacles, Mulu National Park (Prep)
  • Taipei Pig Home Apartment (台北猪窝) @ Taiwan

Advertisement

Copyright © 2016 Hopping Clouds. Created by OddThemes