Taiwan Day 4 (Part 2) - Trains @ Rui Fang (瑞芳) & Sky Lanterns @ Shi Fen (十分)

We debated on whether to take a cab or bus down to Rui Fang to catch the connecting train. With the abating sunlight even though it was just 4pm,  we decided to cab down and probably have more time to figure out the bus numbers later.

Taxi stand. Prices to destinations are listed on the board
Usually a cab will only take 4 passengers but since it was a short journey, the driver agreed to take all 5 of us in his car for an extra NTD50. It took us 20 minutes to reach Rui Fang Train Station down a curvy hill road. As we rolled into Rui Fang, we could see many students from near by schools heading to the street stalls. Students are one of the best gauges on where to get good cheap food.

The driver dropped us off at Rui Fang Train Statio(瑞芳車站) and we quickly looked around for the ticketing machine. The train station officers told us to go down an underpass and we will see a ticketing machine on the wall. The underpass? We were curious as to why a ticketing machine was located underground. As we journeyed through the underpass we saw many photos depicting life in the old days where mining was still carried and how the folks in Rui Fang went about their daily lives. If it wasn't for students milling about and staring at our somewhat touristy looking group, I would have taken a few shots.

Buying the tickets at Rui Fang station to Shi Fen involve pressing a series of buttons on the machine. It's not a touch screen. Refer to the prices on the buttons and put the money into the machine. After the machine accepts your dough, a number of buttons will light up. Press the right button to your destination! There is no "cancel" button. Plus with the queue forming behind us, the pressure was on!

After obtaining our paper tickets, we realised we just missed our train! The next train only comes 45 minutes later. It was 5pm but it looked like 7pm. Since there is nothing to do but wait, we embarked to discover what good noms Rui Fang has to offer.

Freshly steamed vege filled buns
Rui Fang Mei Shi Jie (瑞芳) food court. Must go for cheap eats!

Mee sua and Or Chien. Super yumz!
The portions and size of food in Rui Fang is pretty big. 1 steamed bun is enough to feed 2 of us and 2 bowls of mee sua is enough for the 5 of us.

We hurried back to the station to catch the train to Shi Fen. A light drizzle had by this time. Be warned! Jiu Fen and Rui Fang usually rains in the evenings in late autumn and winter.
Waiting for our train to arrive
 The train ride to Shi Fen (十分) was half an hour long. By this time, it had turned completely dark.

Inside the train along the Pingxi line


Local post box
There isn't much to eat at Shi Fen as most shops close by 7pm. It's really quiet and the main attractions here are the nearby waterfall (which it dangerous to go to in the dark plus you can't see anything) and sky lanterns. There is only one main street in Shi Fen and the train tracks cut right through it. 

The price of the sky lanterns range from NTD100-150 depending on the colours. We went to the sky lantern shop located right at the end as the souvenirs there are a little cheaper. Each sky lantern colour represent a different wish. Pink for love, yellow for money, green for health, red for peace, white for bright future and so on. If you choose a multi-coloured lantern then the price goes up.
CH with his lantern of lurrve
We played with some fireworks courtesy of the kind owner
My mini sky lantern
After the lanterns were lit and we got our souvenirs  we walked back to the small train station for our ride back. It was starting to get a little chilly with the consistent foggy rain.

When we reached Rui Fang, we bought more food and water and waited for the Jingguashi bus back to Jiu Fen. We met a little cutie at the bus stop.

With the cold winds nipping at our bare skin, there was one thing that I really wanted to do that night. To go to Ah Mei Teahouse (阿妹茶楼). I'm usually quite accommodating to people's requirements during the trip. However this was one luxury that I wanted.

So when the bus pulled up at our stop, we hopped out and headed up the dark steep wet stairs of Jiu Fen.


Our destination beckoned us in red.
Ah Mei Teahouse (阿妹茶楼)
On hindsight, it was a pretty good idea to come here past 10pm. No crowds, no pressure to order food. Just tea, desserts and each other's company after a long day of travelling. By the way, this place is one of the more expensive food places during our trip. In Taiwan, there is a surcharge per head in addition to the tea price. Our total tea plus dessert came close to RM110.

It works like this:
Choose your tea (NTDx) + Charge per head (NTDy) = Total cost of tea NTD (x+y)

So, me being a huge anime fan, wanted to see the place where Hayao Miyazaki (director of Spirited Away) was rumoured to have gained his inspiration for No-Face and the bathhouse. I could definately see where No-Face came from.
Masks adorning the outside walls of Ah Mei Teahouse
All those hours spent in the teahouse in my youth came handy. House specialty desserts.
I would say the Ah Mei's desserts are really soft and nice. You could ask the waitress on the type of desserts that go well with the tea of your choice. We chose an almond-ish dish and another with more coconut cream.
View from Ah Mei Teahouse balcony
We savoured our tea slowly, talking about the day and plans for tomorrow. Although strong winds were blowing from the sea, the tea warmed us up.

When we left it was close to midnight. We made out way back to Sun Room, had a supper of Taiwanese fruit beer and stinky toufu and headed to bed.


Rui Fang Train Station (瑞芳車站)
Getting there: Jiu Fen bus stop opposite Circle K or cab 

Rui Fang Mei Shi Jie (瑞芳)
Getting there: Walk from Rui Fang Train Station ► cross main road ► follow the road with many street vendors lined up walk to the end of that street and you will see Rui Fang Mei Shi Jie (瑞芳)

Shi Fen (十分)
Getting there: Rui Fang Train Station ► buy ticket to Shi Fen ► follow directions on platform 

Ah Mei Teahouse (阿妹茶楼)
Address: No.20 Shixia Alley, Chongwenli, Ruifang TownXinbeiTaiwan
Tel: +886 2 24960833

Places to get your Taiwan visitor stamps:
1. Next to Circle K Jiu Fen, there is a Tourist Centre
2. Shi Fen Train Station
3. A shop that sells Bamboo and wood souvenirs in Shi Fen as you head to the sky lanterns

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