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We had passed this shop many times during our walks back after dinner in spring. Usually, we would be either too tired, too cold or plain full from dinner to think about dessert. It's name also reminded us of a place back home where we wondered about the colouring content in the food. *shudder*

It was a particularly windy spring night when we, armed with shopping, decided to make a pit stop to warm ourselves up. The wait for an empty table wasn't too long. We stood on the steps chatting away for 10 minutes before the waitress came and showed us to our seat.

Almost every table had a similar tall dessert. We were curious. The shop smelled of fresh waffles. But where were they? We decided to go with the crowd choice and selected a unassuming chocolate waffle listed on the menu. When it came, we were thankful for not ordering more than one. Look at the size of the thing! By the way, that's the true deal maple syrup. The banana was slightly baked, along with toasted nuts. The balls are those chocolate cereal balls that you can find in the supermarket. The chef must be pretty good at stacking. The waffles were placed on our table nary a wobble.
There is not way to eat this creation without destroying it. We lifted off each layer, split the ice cream, cut the banana into portions and munched away. I think the best combination with chocolate is always the banana. The fruit tempers the sweetness. Add on the chocolate ice-cream and the tastes meld in your mouth. However, if the chocolate ice cream could be changed to rum raisin...*rum raisin happy dance*

Winds picked up when we were inside. A chill set in as we sat near the door. I ordered something else interesting on the menu - ginger soufflé. If you don't like ginger, don't order this. I'm quite partial to ginger as it keeps me warm whenever the weather cools. Ginger actually has many medicinal properties and if you like Chinese home remedies, ginger usually finds its way into your diet. 

The ginger soufflé takes 20 minutes to prepare. Soufflé can't be pre-made as the air will escape the dessert and the middle will deflate almost immediately if not served straight from the oven.  I have eaten soufflés at hotels which claim that its alright to eat deflated heavy soufflés. Perhaps they can hoodwink those who aren't familiar with pastries and desserts.Sweet Tooth makes soufflé the correct way. It's meant to be airy and light because of the whipped egg whites. With a little pot of flavoured cream, it was awesome. 
See it all puffed up
Osmanthus tea, Roselle and Chrsyentenum Tea to wash down the sweet snacks.
Sweet Tooth
Address: G/F, 46 Carnarvon Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Telephone: +852.2721.1121

Opening Hours: 12pm-10pm
Price: $ 
You know that feeling of getting a bite during a long shopping trip, yet it can't be too heavy because you don't want to spoil your dinner.There is a place like that in Causeway Bay where you can grab a snack and yet be healthy about it.

Yan Wo Soya Bean Curd (人和豆品廠) lies tucked away unassumingly in between boutiques and you may actually walk past it but for the steady stream of people entering and leaving the place. People come here for 2 things - soy bean curd and beancurd tofu. In a nutshell, soya bean products. You can give everything else a miss on the menu.

Great for those who are health concious. By the way, you can get full from eating too much tofu as its almost pure protein. For those who sneer at soy bean stuff, wait 'til you try the house speciality. There is frying station at the front of the shop where the tofu chef takes his time to carefully fry rows of tofu stuffed with fish paste.

The constant frying also means that you are guaranteed fresh tofu. Every table we saw had a plate of these even though you could choose the fish-less version. It was so good that AF and I went back for seconds!

The shopkeeper, seeing that we were first timers, volunteered that most patrons asked for either the original or ginger flavoured soy bean curd. As AF already had her cup of hot soymilk, we went with almond flavoured bean curd and original beancurd with red beans. I lovveedd my almond beancurd. 

I don't eat almond flavoured food except for soy bean curd or almond jelly. A particular trait of mine I guess. The almond bean curd here was silky smooth and the soy taste balanced well with the almond taste. I would say it's 80% almond taste. I could do a almond bean curd commercial with what I was having. Imaginary flowers popping about me as I take a gulp and birds doing the cha-cha. La di da di da... 

If you ever feel hungry after SOGO or Island Centre shopping, come by for some wholesome snacks.
Walking directions (cr Google Maps)

Yan Wo Soy Bean Shop (人和豆品廠)
Address: 38 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong.
Opening Hours: 11am-11pm

Price: $
Getting there: Causeway Bay MTR Station Exit F 
►walk along Jardine’s Bazaar
When in Hong Kong, I avoid touristy places and head for areas that the locals venture to. As with any culture, old establishments with horrible service yet with repeated customers tend to signal "there be good food to be found!"

When my HK friends found out that I was staying somewhere on Kimberly Road, they told me that there is a   secret place where locals go to for their fix of tomato gong zai mein. Hmm, interest piqued... Armed with the address, MG, AF and I went to search for the "bing sut" that locals love.

Ok I have to make an explanation  Not every small local eatery serving Western-Canto food in HK is a char chaan teng. There is a char chaan teng (茶餐厅) and there is another category called bing sut (冰室). The difference between the 2 is that bing sut traditionally serves only snack food and drinks. No rice dishes are served. Think of it as a "fast food" version of the char chaan teng. However with the increasing need to earn money, some rice dishes are added to the bing sut menu.

I realized that you were to rely purely on the address, you would probably take ages to find this place. It's pretty hard to find especially when you can't believe that it's located in some run down building and down a flight of dim stairs.
Instructions from Tsim Sha Tsui station Exit B2. Cr. Google map
You will see these landmarks if you are walking based on the map above.
Google Street view

Once you turn the corner, you will see this.


Look for Champagne Court B
When you enter Champagne Court B, you will see a surly uncle guard at his station next to lift. The stairs downwards are directly across from him. Otherwise, there is this yellow archway with these words over it "大都酒店" and stairs heading up. Don't take the stairs up to poshness. Take the stairs down to slightly dodgy, grimy downstairs.

Once you reach the bottom of the stairs and turn the corner, you will see Star Cafe! I'm not kidding.This is actually how it looks like.

As we were there after lunch hour, there were minimal people tucking away at their bowls. The great thing about this place which sets it apart from the other char chaan teng is that real tomatoes are used in the soup instead of processed canned tomato. The egg is whisked into boiling soup that gives it that flotsam sorta feeling. It's thick, gooey and definitely a comfort food in its own right.

Most of the menu is dedicated to various tomato egg noodle variation so you can take a stab at anything. I would say that if you are a first timer, go with the house favourite - tomato beef noodle, add egg "fan keh ngau yuk mien, kaah daan" (蕃茄牛肉麵, 加蛋). Addition of egg sets you back by HKD3. Order a ice lemon tea or "tong ling cha" to make the bing sut experience complete.

Don't expect 5 star treatment or hygiene here. You will be lucky if the waiter didn't nag at you for taking such a long time to decide on your order. Just soak in the 1960's ambiance in a dank alleyway warmed by one of a kind tomato noodles.

Star Cafe (星座冰室)
Address:Shop No. 36, Champagne Court, 16-20 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui , Hong Kong[尖沙咀金巴利道16-20號香檳大廈地庫36號舖]
Tel: +852 2721 2908
Opening Hours: 8am-9.30pm
Price: $
Getting there: Refer to pictures above
Tip: Champagne Court sells lots of cameras. You can check out the prices.
My friends thought I was nuts. The conversation usually went like this

*flashback*

Friend A: Where are you going this year?

Me: Just heading out to Hong Kong

Friend A: It's not time for the summer sale yet.

Me: I'm not going shopping.

*cue funny look from Friend A*

Friend A : Thennn...

Me: I'm hiking

Friend A: Hong Kong? Hiking? Are you sure there is a place to hike in the concrete jungle? You mean that you are hiking through the departmental stores...rigghhttt?

Me: Nope, I'm really going hiking. Grass, trees, rocks.. hiking

Friend A: Okaaayyy... *gives me the you-are-crazy look*

The Hong Kong Tourism Board does a great job promoting its hiking trails to tourists - http://www.discoverhongkong.com/us/see-do/great-outdoors/index.jsp. If you drop by the Hong Kong Tourism shop right after you collect your luggage at the Hong Kong International Airport, you can pick up a a hard copy solely focused on outdoor trails and parks. With this book, it gives something to the hikers to do while their friends go shopping at Causeway Bay.  If I had more days there, I would have probably done another trail.

A few trails were considered - Sunrise Peak, Lamma Island and Maclehose Trail. After much deliberation and it's our first time hiking in Hong Kong, we decided to go with Maclehose. The trail is named after a Hong Kong governor named Sir Murray Maclehose, who looked after the colony from 1971-1982. He was the one who started the MTR project and started many new villages to accommodate the boat people and those escaping from Mao's Cultural Revolution.

We got some advice before setting off on our trips from friends who were stationed on the island. As I was used to hiking in the humid jungles of our Equatorial-ish countries, I was surprised when I was informed that no guide is needed even if you did the whole 100km of the Maclehose trail. All trails have markers spaced out every 500m or so. The markers also serve a function to let people know in case you get lost. Yes, you will still be able to get cell phone reception.

The sky was downcast when we woke up at 7am to gear up for the long walk. It was still undecided whether to do Trail 1 or Trail 2 or both.
Breakfast at a random char teng - I can't hike on a full stomach. 
We took the MTR to Diamond Hill and at the bus interchange, we got on bus 92 to Sai Kung town. It's the last stop so we didn't have to worry about counting bus stops or anything like that.
On bus 92 heading to Sai Kung. The weather got worse.
The rain was still drizzling as we got off the bus at Sai Kung. A choice needs to be made on which trail to take. Although we had brought out ponchos. we didn't want to be stuck in a rain storm. The weather was supposed to be clear according to the weather forecast but a freak storm was upon us. Chancing upon the Sai Kung Visitor Centre, we got advice from 2 friendly aunties on how to go about our trip. They were hikers themselves and not some weak paper-pushers. Since I was the only Cantonese speaker in our group, it was left to me. Turns out that these seasoned hikers suggested that we give the first half of Trail 1 a miss since it was just asphalt and dust. They suggested that we should take a green taxi from the taxi stand near the pier all the way up to the High Island Reservoir and start from there as it would save time. Plus, they say we would have time to appreciate the amazing views it has to offer.

Sai Kung town is the last stop to stock up on water and snack bars before heading out. It will be awhile before we run into civilisation.
Cute paper boats sculptures at the visitor centre
On the way to the taxi stand
Grateful for their advice, we made our way over and caught a cab in no time. It didn't cost more than SGD20 for the cab to bring us all the way up to the reservoir. Luckily we did too. Otherwise all our energy would be spent on climbing a gravel road all the way up.
This looks like a freaking sea! But it's all fresh water!
Levee that separates fresh water from salt water



The High Island area has been designated as a Geo-Park as the you can see hexagonal columnar joints from different angles and even get close to them. These rocks are shaped as if man took a tool to them but it's all natural. Neatly arranged by lava, gravity and erosion, it was quite amazing to see stacks of these rocks rising up.

The winds are really strong and cold at the dam. We saw a couple taking wedding photos there and the bride was a wee little thing in a short puffy skirt. I had an image of winds blowing her away.

This trail is famous for its isolated beaches, accessible only through the hiking trails or by boat. We started at at 11am at a good pace and 20 minutes later we crested a hill. Nature said hello.

Long Ke Wan (浪茄灣) popped up with a sandy white beach. We were unprepared when it appeared from behind a hill. The view was amazing. We were chatting about how the other beaches would look like if the one "nearest" to civilisation looked like this.
Hexagonal rock columns by the bay


As we headed to the beach, we passed by a Christian drug rehabilitation centre for youths. In a way, it was the perfect place, there is no escape, no temptations, except for the sea and hills all around.
South China Sea dead ahead
There was a group of expat hikers in front of us when we started. They joined some sort of hiking group to bring them in. They broke out picnic gear when they reached and informed us that this is the last stop for them. They started halfway up Section 1 and ended here. We wished them a pleasant stay and continued on. That is one thing I really like about hiking, you get pretty decent people on the trail. You hear greetings, people descending making way for people heading up etc. Of course you come across some typical I'm the king of the hill types. Those just need to be thrown off.

The weather got worse when we left Long Ke Wan. Winds picked up speed and a heavy fog settled. I couldn't take many photos then as I was more worried about wandering off the marked trail in the fog.
Starting the uphill climb towards Sai Wan Shan  (西灣山). Weather was starting to turn bad
We could hardly see 5 feet in front of us. My friend sent a photo back to office with the tag "Where in blazes are we?!"
We later figured out why the weather took a change all of a sudden. We hiked right into a typhoon warning level 2! Well, that's one off my bucket list - hiking into a possible typhoon, check!

The path from Long Ke Wan to Sai Wan isn't paved but its a nicely packed dirt track. We took a couple of breaks at the pavilions to have lunch and snacks. The warm food and drinks helped us through the cold winds. MG and I looked a little like crazy bag ladies. An was being her radiant self. At the pavilion we passed a group of collage boys who looked like they were going to camp at one of the beaches. They even brought a bag of booze, with all their camping gear and tents! The girls looked at each other and had the same thought, "if we were 10 years younger and didn't have to work for our keep."

The storm finally let up and caught our first glimpse of Sai Wan (西灣).
We hurriedly made our way off the mountain and into the marshlands.
On the way to Sai Wan
There were more people here as there is a small fishing village located at Sai Wan. They also cater for hikers with little refreshment stalls. There is even a surf school here! Here is a good place to refill your water packs if you are empty by now.
Sai Wan Village is also accessible by bus from Sai Kung town with a 30 minutes hike from the bus stop. The beach here was just okay. Probably due to the high human traffic. If you want to camp, the beach is better 5 minutes away from the village. There is a helipad built behind it with a pretty decent toilet with bathing facilities.

In the summer, this village holds a different attraction. There is a natural rock pool 10 minutes away which known for cliff-jumping activities.

When we made our way through the village (the trail actually cuts through the village), wwe realised a  number of  houses are no longer inhabited. It's sorta sad, really. Modernisation...people leaving for greener pastures...

What do you do when you leave your house? Use a stick. To prevent trespassers, the villages just put a stick across the door. That's it. No locks. Just a long wooden stick.
Sai Wan's cleaner beach
Someone pitched a tent on Sai Wan beach and brought a couple of Labradors. I wished I could have stopped hiking and pitched a tent on my own. It was calming to face the sea with only your thoughts. To see what you are, what you were and what is to be. 



The trail snaked uphill again after Sai Wan. There is one more beach  along Tai Long Wan, beyond the ridge. After a 45 minutes walk while avoiding of cow dung, Ham Tin Wan (鹹田灣) revealed itself. Yes, you did read it right. Cow poop. EVERYWHERE. These wandering cattle are descendants of those let lose when the government gazetted farming land for the reservoir and conservation parks. You hear a rustle in a thick bush and suddenly a bovine stares at you while munching.

Get this, you would think cows prefer the grassy trails? Wrong, these animals take the paved road.


Descending again
Ham Tin Wan, the place to surf
At Ham Tin Wan, there are a couple of  restaurants where you can get a bite or rent camping gear for  night on the beach. There's quite a bit of vegetation around here so beware of the mosquitoes. It was 3pm when we reached this beach. We could have probably reached faster but we took our time and just soaked in the amazing sights along the way.

After Ham Tin Wan, you don't really get to see many people on the trail, if you can call it a trail. There is no 1 single clear path so we just kept our peeled for the trail markers that  spaced out every 500m or so. We had to double back once because we lost sight of the markers. This part of the hike was relatively flat and moving through alot of sand. After the sand, comes the jungle. We got the paved path again at this point. Our pace quickened as we did not want to wander around in the darkness when dusk hits.

After 1 1/2 hours going up and downhill on a very steep gradient, we stumbled into an old Hakka village. Some had inhabitants but most of them looked like the owners got up one day, locked up and left. It really looks like the owner went to the farm and will be back real soon. That's when our imagination started to run wild. It was a ghost town or village in this case. We met a kind old farmer and he assured us that we were on the right track.

 We all heaved a sigh of relief when we saw this sign.
 We knew that our hike was nearing it's end when we passed the camping grounds near Chek Keng

(赤徑). This place is actually accessible by ferry from the Wong Shek Ferry Pier. So for those who wants

a shortcut, here it is. After the awesome sights the earlier beaches gave, this beach was a little sad and abandoned. I'm not sure if the overcast weather just make everything look a little more glum or it was just me. 
 More creepy villages on the way out. At this point we were really hurrying.

 We brought out our headlamps around 6pm. It was really dark as we hit another part of the jungle/overgrown farmlands.Street lamps were few and in between. Luckily we ran into some people on their way out too. Imagine our joy at seeing humans after creepiness of the empty houses. Yay for people!

The hike ended around 6.45pm at Pak Tam Road. A couple of hikers showed us where the bus stop is. It's difficult to spot it at night as it was located in a dimly lit area, 100m from the left of the sign above on Pak Tam Road. Another way to know whether you are standing at the right spot is that you will see Maclehose Stage III starting sign across the road from where you are waiting for the bus.

Bus 94 came along and we climbed on board back to Sai Kung town for dinner.

Hidden pristine beaches accessible only by hiking. There is a whole lot more to Hong Kong that meets the eye.

Maclehose Trail Stage ending half of 1 & whole of 2
Getting there: Diamond Hill MTR ► Bus 92 at Diamond Hill Bus Interchange ► Sai Kung Bus Interchange ► take green cab to Reservoir.
Getting back: Pak Tam Road bus stop (left of sign) ► Bus 94 to Sai Kung Bus Interchange ► Bus 92 to Diamond Hill Bus interchange ► Diamond Hill MTR
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