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We woke up at 5am to get ready for our hike. We thought it would still be dark like in Singapore but the sun rose very fast in Jeju. By 6.00am we were on the road heading towards Hallasan (한라산). We were worried about weather reports and debated whether to take along our thicker hiking jackets. That morning was predicted to be 3C!

We chose Seongpanak Trail (9.7km) both ways as it was closer to where we were staying. The drive was really lovely but be careful! The roads tend to wind a bit. Some folks may choose the other trail Gwaneusa (8.7km) to descend as it is steeper and a shorter route but that's on the other side of the trail for us. It wasn't worth hitching a ride all the way back to our car.
Seongpanak Visitor Centre
You see the yellow board on the bottom left of the photo above? That's where visitors were supposed to register. Admission is free. If you want to get a certificate for climbing Hallasan, you have to make it back down before 4pm to get the certificate (with your name on it) for around KRW1,000.

Empty your bladder at the Visitor Centre, it's going to be a while before you see the next toilet.


The hiking information board says the first part of the trail is 4.1km. It sure didn't feel like 4.1km. Although a gentle slope upwards, it felt like a 5.5km.



800m only?! This was after half an hour after departing the visitor centre

We reached Sokbat Shelter (toilet break!) after 2 hours of walking. The unusual thing about toilets at the Sokbat Shelter is that it uses bubble foam to flush toilets. This is to conserve water supplies and also keep the smell at bay. There is no food available at this shelter so press on! 

The pine forest greets you after Sokbat.


If you came in spring, this would be a brook


First glimpse at Jindallaebat Shelter. The sun was beating down on us and whatever weather forecast in the morning of of gloomy and cold skies! I started to strip off the layers and continued my hike in a sleeveless T-shirt.

This is the last stop before the last stretch upwards to the peak. You should reach here just before lunch to grab a meal of instant ramen. By the way, the instant ramen tastes awesome during the cold weather. There are no trash bins along the trail there. If you are lucky, you may see some park stuff making their cleaning rounds and you could ask if you can dispose of trash with them. However, hikers are expected to bring their trash down the mountain for disposal. So, pack responsibly!

It's a very Korean experience to eat ramyeon here.
The next part of the trail was much steeper than the earlier parts. I think I over packed by the way. I tend to do that - maybe part of the Girl Guides/Scout training instilled in me to be prepared for anything. I also tend to run into scrapes more often than many other people.

Tall pine trees gave way to low shrubs and then just barren land. Perhaps, spring hasn't really knocked on nature's doors yet. This part of the trail was labelled as the most "difficult" of the hike but given the other hikes I have been on, this is probably a more vigorous romp. I saw many hikers outfitted with sneakers and barely a bottle of water. You can try doing the sneakers but not the water. Seriously, you will need the water.

The stone steps getting taller as you approach the peak. The bare stones and ravens (yes, they are huge) could probably be a set for one of those Alfred Hitchcock movies.


There is only one building manned by a park ranger at the peak. No other shelter apart form that.



We spent an hour soaking in the views and getting our energy up for the hike back down. When we were getting ready to leave, the ravens started cawing loudly. Their caws echoed off the mountains. The park ranger announced (using the PA system mounted to the building) that a storm was approaching and everyone had to get off the mountain. Those who just arrived were turn around immediately and leave. Were the ravens some sort of natural weather system?

We hastened our steps to get in front of the departing crowd.

Sunlight faded at a pretty quick rate and we didn't fancy getting a sprained ankle with all the rocks. We passed a herd of indigenous deer on the way down. Barely visible in the dimming light. I didn't stop to look, I was rock hopping all the way down to reduce the pressure building up in my wonky knee.

When everyone reached the car, we packed and called it a day. Our reward for the climb? Meat.


This trip to Jeju Island is a UNESCO treasure hunt.

When we sorted out the accommodation at Doldam, it was already post lunch. We quickly headed out to a neighborhood restaurant recommended by Su and had the best meal throughout our trip! I'm not exaggerating. Everything was so fresh and the ahjummas were being quite generous in our portions. We were a dead giveaway as first timers to Jeju.
This isn't even the full spread yet!
After our bellies were full with our first Jeju meal, we started up the GPS and made out way to Seongsan Ilchubong Peak (성산일출봉). This is the first on our Jeju UNESCO check off.

Seongsan Ilchubong Peak means sunrise peak and it's the go to place to greet the sunrise for the new year. It's located at the end of the eastern part of the island. We were rushing to make the sunset instead. We were told that the sunset is awfully pretty there.


On our way there we passed fields of rapeseed flowers in full bloom with native ponies wandering around! It looked like a scene out of those travel magazines that makes you wonder whether it has been Photo-shopped. We promised each other that we would definitely have a romp in the fields on the way back.

Seongsan Ilchubong  was formed from under the sea from a volcanic eruption. At the top of the mountain, there a huge bowl like crater. From an aerial view, it looks like an ancient castle. There are a few trails to get to the top of the peak, offering different views. You many not come down the same way you went up so choose wisely.

Luckily for us, the crowds were dwindling when we arrived.  We weren't sure how strenous this walk around the peak would be considering we were going to the highest point on the entire island the next morning. We were very surprised that the Seongsan Ilchubong was quite leisurely considering it was supposed to be a small mountain.



If you want to try your hand at the trails here, I would suggest a decent pair of sneakers. Lots of stairs everywhere.
Dusk is starting to settle

This is the crater at the top of the mountain
On our way down, the hanyeos have left for the day. This cove is where they would collect shellfish and sell to tourists.
It took us about an 1 1/2 hours as we took our time making our way back to our rental car, while enjoying the evening breeze.

We didn't forget the flowers on our way back. I would have loved to have spent more time in the fields if the sun wasn't setting at an extremely fast rate.

Since we would pass Seogwipo, we hopped into a shop selling ox bone soup to fill ourselves up. The winds in Jeju get very strong and cold in the evenings. The ox bone soup really hit the spot. We were actually looking for black pork BBQ but this soup place turned out great!


We wandered around after dinner and bought some breads from the local bakery for the next day's adventure. Most eateries in Jeju has an English menu (including the bakery) so we were quite happy eating our way around.

After the whole day of flying, training, walking and driving, we were tired to our core. We could barely keep our eyes open as we packed our hiking gear for the next day. Not to mention the sound of waves lulled us to sleep in no time.


Seongsan Ilchubung Peak
Address:284-12, Ilchul-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do
제주특별자치도 서귀포시 성산읍 일출로 284-12
Tel: +82-64-710-7908 /+82-64-783-0959 (Guided tours available)

Admission Fees:  Adults 2,000 won/teens and children 1,000 won


Our maiden trip to Jeju Island involves hiking, lots of hiking.

Doldam Guesthouse, with its proximity to the sea and Hallasan and great reviews on Tripadvisor pretty much sold it to me. Plus they have a dog!

Su from Doldam responded to our endless questions patiently about Jeju and her guesthouse. I quite a paranoid person when it comes to accommodation. I wouldn't be surprised if the thought of cancelling our reservations crossed her mind!

She also helped us make the arrangements for our rental car at a decent price. It was much cheaper than getting it on our own. We honestly have no idea where we were driving to when we got our rental car on Jeju Island. The roads there have a habit of hiding behind bushes or at a sharp corner. The locals behind our little white car probably would have loved to nudge us off the cliff as we crawled along looking for an obscure road.

As our GPS beeped, the way we were on opened up to Daepyung Sea Village. What a jaw dropping moment!

 The GPS showed that the guesthouse was just right around the corner but we couldn't resist the amazing view! I mean just look at it!


A light tower with a statue of a lady enjoying the sea breeze
Doldam is the Korean word for 'stonewall' and there are stonewalls everywhere in Jeju! The stone walls in Jeju serves multiple purposes like land boundaries, protecting agriculture and lifestock and also to prevent the rich volcanic soil from blowing away!

A couple of statues greeted us as we pulled into the driveway. I think it represents the owners, Mr. Kim and Sue. They were originally from Seoul and relocated to Jeju Island to start a slower pace of life. Sue told me that when they decided to settle down on Jeju Island, Mr. Kim took 2 years to look for a plot of land which overlooked the sea. With the view that greeted us each morning, all that walking Mr. Kim did over the island certainly paid off!



The adorable scruffy dog

 
Dining area of Doldam where we had breakfast
Su makes her own tangerine jams and it makes a great souvenir for home.

We had a family room on the ground floor where the view opened up the the garden. It was comfy enough with lots of space for our hiking gear to be splayed out. The toilets were very big with lovely hot water.


On the 2nd day we were moved up to another family room as they had some elderly guests coming in and stairs were a problem. We were glad to change rooms because it gives us another opportunity to see what else this house had to offer.

We got a night sky full with stars as we hung out on the balcony. The room was slightly smaller than the first room we had but we still had quite a bit of space between us.

Doldam offers dinner for a fee but if you want to other dining options, there are a few decently priced restaurants around the neighbourhood within walking distance. Alternatively, take a drive to Seoqwipo for more awesome food!

Doldam Guesthouse
Address: Daepyeongro 46 대평 로 46) 돌담 에 꽃 머무는 집, Daepyeong-li, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do, South Korea
Tel: +82 10-4536-1955
Price: SGD$$$ per room

We figured out a few things out when we booked our self-tour/ hiking trip to Jeju Island. Of course, looking at blogs and travel sites helped but there were just some things that weren't explained.

Hopefully this blog post will assist in your journey.

Travelling to Jeju is relatively easy. The language barrier could prove to be a stumbling block but Jeju residents are so used to foreign travelers (you can fly there direct from Hong Kong, Japan and Philippines!) that they sorta expect you to thumb through your travel documents, point point and do the universal body language dance.

Incheon International Airport (인천국제공항) ✈️ Gimpo International Airport (김포국제공 ✈️항)Jeju Island (제주도) 

If you are flying by Asiana or Korean Air, there would be a transfer at Incheon International Airport. However if you decide to take the budget carriers, the first thing you have to do when arriving at Incheon is getting yourself to Gimpo International Airport.

I collected my Korean EG SIM card from the bookstore at Incheon. If you are facing Gate 7, turn around and you would see K-Books.

This is my second time using EG SIM and it's pretty alright for 4-5 days in Korea. Do not buy EG SIM if you are not using a Samsung or iPhone. There is a huge problem syncing with the network if you got a phone like Lenovo, XiaoMi or god forbid, a Blackberry. Requests for refunds will not be entertained.
Source: http://koreasimblog.blogspot.sg/2013/10/eg-sim-card-you-may-collect-eg-sim-card.html
To get to Gimpo, look for the signs at Incheon upon arriving directing you to an "Airport Railway". You will find yourself at the airport basement. Grab your T-money at the convenience store (you will pass by it on the way to the train station) and top up around SGD100, if you are planning to return to Seoul after Jeju. Trust me, it's worth it.
Walking to catch our ride to Gimpo
If you are not coming back to Seoul, buy a one way ticket from the ticketing machines. Do not buy the Express Train, it will bring you to Seoul Station directly instead of taking you first to Gimpo. The commuter train may be tad slower but it comes more frequent and leads directly to Gimpo. The train ride on the commuter train was quiet and comfortable. We took this time to swap SIM cards.

Gimpo International Airport (김포국제공)

We made a mistake of underestimating the distance and time it would take to store our luggage at Gimpo. It was a good 15 minutes walk following the signs stating "Domestic Airport" from the train station. 
Head upstairs to Departure and look for Domestic Departures. Source: Google Map
After that we look around for the bag (수하물보관소) to store our big bags. Since we were going hiking, we planned to bring only an overnight bag and a 25L hiking bag. There was this grumpy elderly man taking care of the counter who probably was wondering what was his sin to be dealing with so many foreigners who barely spoke Korean. It cost us around SGD70 to store our luggage there for 3 days or 72 hours.

We received an acknowledgement slip after we stored the luggage. This is the only way to identify that the luggage is under the airport's safekeeping. The grumpy man told us that the fees are to be paid upon collection. You will need to guard the slip if you want your luggage back.

Our flight to Jeju was booked through Jeju Air's website. Most Korean websites runs on IE only so don't bother trying with any other web browser. I spent some time mucking around on Chrome before realising that. Reservation instructions are in English and is quite easy to follow.

Running over to the check-in counter, we handed over our passports with 30 minutes to spare! Frequent travellers would know that almost every check in counter closes around the 45 minute mark before departure. Domestic flights in Korea on the other hand only require you to check in 15 minutes before departure! We found out that nugget of information only when the counter lady informed us that they needed to scan our luggage since we were foreigners, so we had to wait at the counter as they were doing that.We were really hoping that the plane wouldn't leave without us.  

It was the first time I had ever heard that foreigners would be subject to extra scans. 

We dashed to the gate once we were cleared. Luck would have it that our gate was way right at the end! I think I only started breathing normally once I got into the place as the last group of passengers. 
Wink of good things to come?
Yes, we held up the plane :(

The lesson here is to buffer more time than you think is required. Murphy's law always strikes when you least expect it!

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