Leong Kee (Klang) Ba Kut Teh
On a scorching, melting, puddle drying afternoon, Fishjelly, I and the Connoisseur went to the Connoisseur's comfort food hideout. I have been craving for Malaysian ba kut teh, not the Teochew sort of peppery soup, which in no KL-ite dictionary, can be called a ba kut teh. We were probably crazy to eat this dish on such a hot day but craving needs to be satiated.
The Klang version of Ba Kut Teh or "meat bone soup (literally) is a concoction of pork meat, ribs or bits (your choice) simmered in pork broth containing Chinese herbs like star anise, cinnamon, wolfberries and darkened with soya sauce. Various vegetables will be thrown in e.g. straw mushrooms and lettuce, to make it a balanced meal.
When I was younger, there was a stall near my house in KL where the broth was chockful of bitter herbs and is not as drinkable as the versions today. But that's the good stuff.
The result of boiling pork parts is a more gelatinous soup that will warm a tummy anywhere, served in a hot claypot.
Messing around while waiting for food |
For a complete ba kut teh experience, "yau cha kwai" (Chinese crullers) is a must have. In Mandarin, it is called 'youtiao". The crullers are dunked into the soup just before eating to soak up the soup. It will have a slight crunch accompanied by a herbal explosion in your mouth.
Simple shop layout |
At Leong Kee, they came pretty close to giving the KL-ite a taste of home but the taste of herbs are still rather weak and the soup rather watery. Price per head is about SGD7 (including rice) so it's quite affordable. The claypots are filled to the brim with soup and plenty of meat. I could do with more vegetables though. Service is quite prompt so there is no waiting about with hungry stomachs. No wonder the Connoisseur comes here almost every week. He can be quite impatient when hungry.
A few tables were occupied by the retired folks as they sat and regaled each other with stories in loud voices. Happiness accompanied by good food and memories.
One surprise for me is the Limau Mau / Ai Yu that they have at the shop. I have not had it for ages because the night market at my house in KL is Thursdays and I only reach on Friday nights. Ai Yu is lime jelly served in lime and honey syrup. It's the best cooler on a hot day like that. So far, I have yet to find it anywhere else in Singapore. Perhaps, Leong Kee will be my new place to think of home.
After all, it is just a street away from shopping at Khandahar street.
Leong Kee (Klang) Ba Kut Teh
Add: 321 Beach Road (Sultan Gate junction)
Opening Hours :11am - 9pm (Tues-Sun)
Price: $
**UPDATE: Leong Kee at Sultan Gate has closed down since November 2014
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