Quick Jeju (Day 2) - Hallasan Hike Seongpanak Trail (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

We woke up at 5am to get ready for our hike. We thought it would still be dark like in Singapore but the sun rose very fast in Jeju. By 6.00am we were on the road heading towards Hallasan (한라산). We were worried about weather reports and debated whether to take along our thicker hiking jackets. That morning was predicted to be 3C!


We chose Seongpanak Trail (9.7km) both ways as it was closer to where we were staying. The drive was really lovely but be careful! The roads tend to wind a bit. Some folks may choose the other trail Gwaneusa (8.7km) to descend as it is steeper and a shorter route but that's on the other side of the trail for us. It wasn't worth hitching a ride all the way back to our car.
Seongpanak Visitor Centre
You see the yellow board on the bottom left of the photo above? That's where visitors were supposed to register. Admission is free. If you want to get a certificate for climbing Hallasan, you have to make it back down before 4pm to get the certificate (with your name on it) for around KRW1,000.

Empty your bladder at the Visitor Centre, it's going to be a while before you see the next toilet.


The hiking information board says the first part of the trail is 4.1km. It sure didn't feel like 4.1km. Although a gentle slope upwards, it felt like a 5.5km.



800m only?! This was after half an hour after departing the visitor centre

We reached Sokbat Shelter (toilet break!) after 2 hours of walking. The unusual thing about toilets at the Sokbat Shelter is that it uses bubble foam to flush toilets. This is to conserve water supplies and also keep the smell at bay. There is no food available at this shelter so press on! 

The pine forest greets you after Sokbat.


If you came in spring, this would be a brook


First glimpse at Jindallaebat Shelter. The sun was beating down on us and whatever weather forecast in the morning of of gloomy and cold skies! I started to strip off the layers and continued my hike in a sleeveless T-shirt.

This is the last stop before the last stretch upwards to the peak. You should reach here just before lunch to grab a meal of instant ramen. By the way, the instant ramen tastes awesome during the cold weather. There are no trash bins along the trail there. If you are lucky, you may see some park stuff making their cleaning rounds and you could ask if you can dispose of trash with them. However, hikers are expected to bring their trash down the mountain for disposal. So, pack responsibly!

It's a very Korean experience to eat ramyeon here.
The next part of the trail was much steeper than the earlier parts. I think I over packed by the way. I tend to do that - maybe part of the Girl Guides/Scout training instilled in me to be prepared for anything. I also tend to run into scrapes more often than many other people.

Tall pine trees gave way to low shrubs and then just barren land. Perhaps, spring hasn't really knocked on nature's doors yet. This part of the trail was labelled as the most "difficult" of the hike but given the other hikes I have been on, this is probably a more vigorous romp. I saw many hikers outfitted with sneakers and barely a bottle of water. You can try doing the sneakers but not the water. Seriously, you will need the water.

The stone steps getting taller as you approach the peak. The bare stones and ravens (yes, they are huge) could probably be a set for one of those Alfred Hitchcock movies.


There is only one building manned by a park ranger at the peak. No other shelter apart form that.



We spent an hour soaking in the views and getting our energy up for the hike back down. When we were getting ready to leave, the ravens started cawing loudly. Their caws echoed off the mountains. The park ranger announced (using the PA system mounted to the building) that a storm was approaching and everyone had to get off the mountain. Those who just arrived were turn around immediately and leave. Were the ravens some sort of natural weather system?

We hastened our steps to get in front of the departing crowd.

Sunlight faded at a pretty quick rate and we didn't fancy getting a sprained ankle with all the rocks. We passed a herd of indigenous deer on the way down. Barely visible in the dimming light. I didn't stop to look, I was rock hopping all the way down to reduce the pressure building up in my wonky knee.

When everyone reached the car, we packed and called it a day. Our reward for the climb? Meat.


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